Tartine

Open-face French bread topped with anything from butter and jam to whipped cream cheese, lox, and pickled mustard seeds.

The Tartine is the sandwich that doesn't quite obey the rules of the form — there's no second slice — but it has held its place in the French daily diet long enough that it gets its own seat at the table. A single slice of pain de campagne (or pain au levain, or rustic seigle) is grilled, the toppings are layered with intent, and the result is eaten with a knife and fork or, in the truest spirit, with hands on a café terrace.

The savoury tradition runs from the breakfast tartine of butter and a smear of jam to the lunch tartine that carries a full salad's worth of ingredients: smoked salmon with whipped cream cheese, pickled red onion, capers, dill; warm goat cheese on toasted seeded bread with honey and walnuts; mushroom duxelles under a poached egg. The sweet tradition belongs mostly to children and to the older French who remember Nutella before it became a global brand, but the savoury tartine is where the form earns its keep.

At its best it's an exercise in restraint — three ingredients on a slice of well-baked bread, none of them trying to be the loudest. At its worst it becomes a vehicle for whatever was in the fridge. The line between the two is whether the bread can carry what's on it without giving up its texture by the third bite.