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Sandwich au Livarot

Livarot cheese sandwich; strong flavor.

A Sandwich au Livarot is decided at the fromagerie, not the sandwich counter, because the cheese arrives with almost everything already done to it. Livarot is a washed-rind cow's-milk cheese from Normandy, banded with strips of reed around its orange rind, with a dense springy paste and a powerful, meaty, barnyard pungency that is the entire point of choosing it. The build is plain: a length of baguette, a thin spread of beurre demi-sel, firm slabs of the cheese laid flat with the rind left on, since the rind carries most of the force.

The work is in restraint, not addition. A ripe Livarot keeps enough structure to slice cleanly, so it sits in defined bites rather than smearing into the crumb, which keeps a very strong cheese from turning relentless. The butter stays thin and even as a counterweight to the salt and the meaty edge. The bread needs a real crust because the filling brings no structure of its own, and the cheese is best at cellar temperature, where it reads creamy and savory rather than dull and cold or aggressively warm. A sliver of air-dried ham or a few slices of firm pear is as far as it should be pushed.

The Sandwich au Livarot sits with the regional-cheese builds the catalog groups under Baguette Fromage. Its specific contribution is a cheese so forceful that the sandwich's only real job is to carry it without letting it take over.

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