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Pane con le Panelle e Crocchè

Panelle with potato croquettes (crocchè) in roll; double-fried carb heaven.

Pane con le panelle e crocchè is the Palermo roll that refuses to choose between the two great fried things at the vat and takes both. Thin chickpea panelle and short fat potato crocchè are loaded together, hot, into one soft sesame roll. The defining quality is that the bite is almost all crust: the panelle bring a brittle skin that shatters, the crocchè bring a crisp bronzed shell over a soft potato centre, and stacking them means every mouthful hits two fried surfaces before it reaches anything soft. It is the maximalist version of the Palermo fryer sandwich, where the plain panelle roll is lean and the plain crocchè roll is rich, and this one is deliberately both at once.

The craft is balancing two fritters that fry differently in the same roll. The panelle are spread thin and fried hard so they stay crisp and do not turn to paste under the weight of the crocchè, while the crocchè are shaped and fried so their crust sets fast and the inside steams soft. Both have to come off the heat and into the bread close together, because the whole appeal is the doubled crunch while it is still live, and a roll that has waited goes slack as both fillings give up their crispness. The sesame roll is plain and slightly sweet, sized to take a generous load without falling apart, and lemon and salt are the only dressing, the acid the single sharp note cutting across what is otherwise a wall of fried starch. None of it keeps; this is handed over and eaten standing.

The named turns stay on the same Palermo street and the same vat: the plain panelle roll, the plain crocchè roll, and the version with fried aubergine worked in alongside. Each of those is a different load in the same kind of roll, and each deserves its own article rather than being crowded in here.

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