· 2 min read

Cantina Taco

Taco Bell's 'elevated' street taco style.

🇲🇽 Mexico · Family: El Taco Tex-Mex · Region: USA (Taco Bell)


The cantina taco is a fast-food chain's reading of the open street taco, and what defines it is restraint relative to the heavily dressed format that surrounds it on the same menu. It is a single small soft corn tortilla, or a doubled one, holding a modest amount of meat, diced white onion, chopped cilantro, and a wedge of lime, with no shredded lettuce, no shredded yellow cheese, no sour cream. The build's logic is that the meat and the three garnishes are meant to be tasted as themselves. The onion brings a clean sharp crunch, the cilantro a green top note, the lime an acid that wakes the meat, and the soft corn tortilla a faintly toasted base that holds without dominating. Strip out the lime and the taco goes flat; pile on the cheese and lettuce it deliberately leaves off, and it becomes the other thing entirely.

A good cantina taco depends on the tortilla and the discipline of the dressing. The corn tortilla should be warmed soft and pliable on a flat heat so it folds without cracking, doubled when the filling is wet so the bottom does not blow out before the taco is eaten. The meat, grilled chicken, carne asada, or a marinated pork, is chopped small and kept to a portion the single tortilla can actually carry, drained so juice does not soak straight through. Onion and cilantro go on raw and in measured amounts so they read as bright accents rather than a salad, and the lime is added by the eater at the last moment so the acid is fresh rather than dulled. The honest failure of the style is overfilling or a tortilla warmed badly so it tears, and the second is treating the simplicity as an excuse for bland meat, since there is no cheese or crema here to hide behind.

Add shredded lettuce, yellow cheese, and a hard or soft flour shell and you have the standard chain taco, a fully different construction that deserves its own article rather than being crowded in here. Trade the corn tortilla for a fried rigid shell and the cousin becomes the crunchy taco, a texture-led build that deserves its own article rather than being crowded in here. Move toward a true taqueria taco de asada, with a salsa from a comal and meat off a real grill, and that deserves its own article rather than being crowded in here.


More from this family

Other El Taco Tex-Mex sandwiches in Mexico:

See all El Taco Tex-Mex sandwiches →

Read next

Kebab

Polish kebab; döner kebab extremely popular in Poland since 1990s. Often with unique Polish toppings and sauces.

Andrew Lekashman
Andrew Lekashman
· 2 min read

Hot Dog

Grilled or steamed frankfurter in a sliced bun with various regional toppings.

Andrew Lekashman
Andrew Lekashman
· 2 min read