· 2 min read

Malawach with Cheese (מלאווח עם גבינה)

Malawach with cheese melted inside.

Malawach with Cheese (מלאווח עם גבינה) is the Yemenite laminated flatbread cooked with cheese melted into or between its layers, and the angle is heat management on an already fatty bread. Malawach is butter-folded and pan-fried until it flakes apart, so adding cheese means stacking richness on richness, and the only thing that keeps it from turning into a heavy slab is the timing of the melt and the choice of cheese. Done right the cheese is molten and stringy or softly set inside a still-crisp round; done wrong it is either a pale, greasy disc with cold cheese that never bound, or a scorched one where the bottom burned while the eater waited for the cheese to go.

The build runs two recognizable ways. In one, a thin layer of cheese, often a salty white melting cheese like a kashkaval or a soft yellow cheese, is laid on a half-cooked malawach, the round folded over or topped with a second sheet, and the whole returned to the pan so the bread finishes crisping while the cheese melts in the trapped heat. In the other, grated cheese is folded into the dough's layers before the final fry so it melts through as the leaves separate. Either way the bread has to stay the structural element: it should still shatter at the edge and hold its shape, with the cheese reading as a soft, salty band rather than a pool that makes the round collapse. A good version balances the fat with the standard Yemenite accompaniments, crushed fresh tomato with garlic and s'chug, whose acid and heat cut straight through the dairy. A sloppy one skips that, leaves the cheese underdone and rubbery, or uses so much that the bread steams instead of crisps and goes limp under the weight.

It varies first by cheese, a sharp salty melting cheese giving a stretchy, savory result, a milder soft cheese giving a creamier, gentler one, and second by method, cheese sealed between two rounds versus cheese laminated into the dough. It also varies by what comes with it: kept savory with tomato and s'chug, or pushed sweet with honey or a sprinkle of sugar over the melted cheese for a dessert reading. The plain malawach, the egg version, and the savory filled roll are each their own order and deserve their own treatment rather than a line here, but this one holds to a single idea: a laminated fried Yemenite round with cheese melted through it, kept honest by acid and heat so the doubled richness still eats clean.

Read next

Fruit Sando (フルーツサンド)

Fruit and barely-sweet cream in crustless milk bread, arranged so the knife reveals a picture. The fruit sando is the rare sandwich engineered as much for its cross-section as its taste.

Andrew Lekashman
Andrew Lekashman
· 3 min read