· 2 min read

Shishlik b'Pita (שישליק בפיתה)

Shishlik in pita; cubed grilled meat skewers.

Shishlik b'Pita (שישליק בפיתה) is cubed grilled meat, threaded on skewers and cooked over fire, slid off into pita with the standard Israeli grill accompaniments. The angle is the meat and the char. Shishlik is whole muscle cut into chunks rather than ground, so unlike a kofta build it lives on the quality of the cut, the marinade, and the moment it comes off the coals. The pita is a vessel and a sponge here, catching juices, but the sandwich rises or falls on the skewer.

The build is short and the timing is everything. The meat is usually lamb or beef, sometimes with cubes of fat threaded between the lean so it bastes itself, cut large enough to stay juicy over high heat and seasoned with salt, pepper, and often cumin or a simple oil-and-spice marinade. It goes over a hot grill or coals, turned so all faces take color, and is pulled while the inside is still pink and moist. The pita is opened, sometimes warmed on the grill edge, and the cubes are pushed off the skewer straight into the pocket so the residual heat and fat soak slightly into the bread. From there the standard cast goes in: chopped Israeli salad of tomato, cucumber and onion, tahini, pickles, grilled onion and pepper if they shared the skewer, and s'chug or amba for those who want heat. Done right, the meat is well charred outside and tender within, the bread has taken a little of the juice without going to mush, and the salad and tahini cut the richness so the whole thing stays balanced. Done wrong, the cubes are gray and dry from sitting too long over the fire, or the fat never rendered and the bite turns chewy, or the pocket is so overloaded with salad and sauce that the meat is lost.

It is served as a stuffed pita eaten by hand, often with the skewer's grilled vegetables tucked in alongside and extra hot sauce on the side. It varies first by the meat and cut, a fattier lamb shoulder reading richer, a leaner beef sirloin reading cleaner, and second by the marinade and the grilling surface, an open coal grill giving more smoke, a flat-top giving a more even sear. Laffa-wrapped versions and plated mixed-grill orders carry the same skewered core in a different wrapper. Each is a recognizable order of its own and deserves its own treatment rather than a footnote here, but they all return to the same idea: chunks of good meat grilled hard, slid off the skewer, and held in bread that frames the char rather than competing with it.

Read next

Fruit Sando (フルーツサンド)

Fruit and barely-sweet cream in crustless milk bread, arranged so the knife reveals a picture. The fruit sando is the rare sandwich engineered as much for its cross-section as its taste.

Andrew Lekashman
Andrew Lekashman
· 3 min read