Panino con Salam d'la Duja
Salam d'la duja on a firm biova: a Piedmontese salame matured submerged in pork lard inside a terracotta crock, kept slack and almost spreadable because the rice-paddy air was too damp to hang it.
Salam d'la duja on a firm biova: a Piedmontese salame matured submerged in pork lard inside a terracotta crock, kept slack and almost spreadable because the rice-paddy air was too damp to hang it.
The rosetta is a five-petalled Roman roll baked nearly hollow, a brittle shell around an empty chamber. The sandwich is mostly air, loaded light and eaten before the crust gives in.
Soft fresh robiola, smeared knife-thick on a Piedmont loaf and taken barely cool. The jar the cook reaches for, Bosina, Cocconato or Rocchetta, is rarely the same cheese twice.
Robiola di Roccaverano DOP (raw goat's milk); tangy, creamy.
Salted, aged ricotta (firm, grateable) on bread; salty, crumbly.
Fresh ricotta from Lazio; mild, creamy, slightly grainy.
Raschera comes as a square, the corners a relic of the mules that carried it down the Cuneo mountains. A mild, supple washed-rind wheel that eats cool or slumps to a melt under warmth.
Ragusano DOP (stretched-curd cheese aged in caves); caciocavallo-like, complex.
Meat (often beef rolls—braciole) from Neapolitan ragù (slow-cooked tomato sauce) on bread.
Red radicchio (especially Treviso IGP's long, tapered variety) grilled or raw on sandwich.
Treviso radicchio specifically; bitter, slightly sweet when grilled.
Mixed boiled organ meats (quarume) in broth-dipped bread; similar to Florentine lampredotto.
Quartirolo DOP (soft, tangy, fresh cow's milk cheese); delicate flavor.
Provolone del Monaco DOP (aged, sharp provolone from the Lattari Mountains); complex, piquant.
Provola (smoked mozzarella-style cheese) on bread; smoky flavor.
Specifically smoked provola; more intense smoke.
Tuscan DOP prosciutto, saltier and more assertive than Parma, on unsalted Tuscan bread.
Prosciutto di Sauris IGP (lightly smoked); unique among Italian prosciutti.
San Daniele DOP prosciutto (sweeter, softer than Parma, guitar-shaped); aged in Alpine air.
A panino built to deliver one certified ham: Prosciutto di Parma DOP, the fire-branded leg cured on nothing but sea salt and the dry air of Langhirano.
Prosciutto di Norcia IGP (slightly smokier, aged in mountain air) on bread.
Wild boar prosciutto; gamey, intense cured meat.
Fresh, lightly salted sheep's milk cheese; mild, milky.
Presnitz (sweet rolled pastry with nuts and dried fruit) sometimes eaten sandwich-style.