Panino con Salame Cotto
Piedmont's salame cotto skips the cure, preserved by cooking rather than months in cellar air. Soft and pale, it is cut thick at the Monferrato counter for a working sandwich carried to the fields.
Piedmont's salame cotto skips the cure, preserved by cooking rather than months in cellar air. Soft and pale, it is cut thick at the Monferrato counter for a working sandwich carried to the fields.
Salam d'la duja on a firm biova: a Piedmontese salame matured submerged in pork lard inside a terracotta crock, kept slack and almost spreadable because the rice-paddy air was too damp to hang it.
The rosetta is a five-petalled Roman roll baked nearly hollow, a brittle shell around an empty chamber. The sandwich is mostly air, loaded light and eaten before the crust gives in.
Soft fresh robiola, smeared knife-thick on a Piedmont loaf and taken barely cool. The jar the cook reaches for, Bosina, Cocconato or Rocchetta, is rarely the same cheese twice.
Robiola di Roccaverano DOP (raw goat's milk); tangy, creamy.
Salted, aged ricotta (firm, grateable) on bread; salty, crumbly.
Fresh ricotta from Lazio; mild, creamy, slightly grainy.
Raschera comes as a square, the corners a relic of the mules that carried it down the Cuneo mountains. A mild, supple washed-rind wheel that eats cool or slumps to a melt under warmth.
Ragusano DOP (stretched-curd cheese aged in caves); caciocavallo-like, complex.
Meat (often beef rolls—braciole) from Neapolitan ragù (slow-cooked tomato sauce) on bread.
Red radicchio (especially Treviso IGP's long, tapered variety) grilled or raw on sandwich.
Treviso radicchio specifically; bitter, slightly sweet when grilled.
Palermo's quarume: mixed veal offal (omasum, abomasum, duodenum) boiled for hours in vegetable broth, packed hot into a rosetta with lemon and pepper. Named for its cauldron, not its organ.
Quartirolo DOP (soft, tangy, fresh cow's milk cheese); delicate flavor.
Provolone del Monaco DOP (aged, sharp provolone from the Lattari Mountains); complex, piquant.
Provola (smoked mozzarella-style cheese) on bread; smoky flavor.
Specifically smoked provola; more intense smoke.
Tuscan DOP prosciutto, saltier and more assertive than Parma, on unsalted Tuscan bread.
Prosciutto di Sauris IGP (lightly smoked); unique among Italian prosciutti.
San Daniele DOP prosciutto (sweeter, softer than Parma, guitar-shaped); aged in Alpine air.
A panino built to deliver one certified ham: Prosciutto di Parma DOP, the fire-branded leg cured on nothing but sea salt and the dry air of Langhirano.
Prosciutto di Norcia IGP (slightly smokier, aged in mountain air) on bread.
Wild boar prosciutto; gamey, intense cured meat.
Fresh, lightly salted sheep's milk cheese; mild, milky.