El Taco Callejero

Taco

A tortilla folded around a filling, eaten in the hand: the irreducible Mexican handheld, doubled for a reason and finished by a grammar stricter than it looks.

Taco Sudado

A small corn tortilla dipped in chile-tinted oil, folded around a stew, packed into a cloth-lined basket and steamed against its neighbours: the Mexico City dawn taco the canastero brings by bicycle.

Taco Placero

The market-floor taco of Mexico's covered municipal halls: a warm corn tortilla folded around the morning guisado, served standing between errands, named for the plaza it is sold on.

Taco de Tripas

The taco de tripas is settled at the disco, where cleaned beef small intestine is browned until it crackles. Con dorar or sin dorar is the real argument, and the corn tortilla soaks the rendered fat.

Taco de Panuchos

The panucho puts the bean inside the tortilla: a corn disc split open at its puff, stuffed with refried black beans, fried crisp, then crowned Yucatán-style with turkey and pink pickled onion.

Taco de Ojo

The soft, gelatinous tissue from a steamed beef eye socket, chopped onto warm corn with onion, cilantro, and lime. The connoisseur's pick from the whole-head cabeza trade.