Kathi Roll

A Kolkata kathi roll: spiced chicken with sliced red onion and chopped coriander chutney in a charred, flaky paratha, half-unwrapped from white paper.

Kathi Roll

On a Kolkata pavement at rush hour it makes sense the way nothing at a table does: a flaky paratha rolled tight around skewer kebab, onion, chutney and lemon, built for one hand and a moving crowd.