Sandwich Rollmops
Unpin the skewer and a rollmops springs loose: a herring fillet soured in vinegar, wound around onion and gherkin. The bread's only job is to give all that acid somewhere soft to land.
Unpin the skewer and a rollmops springs loose: a herring fillet soured in vinegar, wound around onion and gherkin. The bread's only job is to give all that acid somewhere soft to land.
One thread of honey turns a plain goat round into its own sandwich. Run it light over a young Rocamadour, dark over a firmer one, and the sweet and the lactic tang hold each other up.
Rillons are large cubes of pork belly confit in their own fat, crisp-edged and whole rather than spread, the Touraine answer to a climate too damp for dry-curing.
The Sandwich Rillettes du Mans spreads fork-shredded pork, packed pale and loose in its own fat, thick onto a baguette, a cornichon to cut the richness. The coarse Sarthe benchmark.
Le Mans rillettes (whiter, creamier) on bread.
The Southwest's goose-rillettes spread on a crusted baguette: long-shredded leg meat sealed in its own fat, opened cool in October from a Gers cellar terrine.
Tours-style rillettes -- cooked uncovered until the pork fibers caramelize and the paste turns golden-brown -- spread thick on a baguette with cornichons and a glass of Vouvray.
Tours rillettes (darker, textured) on baguette.
A no-cook tuna spread from a tin and a tub of crème fraîche, mashed with lemon and shallot for the apéritif hour. The most domestic of the French fish rillettes.
A salmon rillettes runs the same fish in two states: fresh-poached for the tender flake, cold-smoked for the salt and woodsmoke. Bound with butter, served at room temperature so the spread loosens.
Pork shoulder and belly cooked down in their own fat to a coarse spread, packed thick into a baguette, cut with a cornichon. The default rillettes, served at room temperature where the fat carries.
Mackerel flaked into a soft spread bound by creme fraiche and lemon rather than its own fat, layered thick on a crusted loaf and eaten cold. Lighter and sharper than any potted pork.
Duck leg slow-cooked in its own fat and shredded to a dark, gamy spread, packed into a crusted baguette. The richer, deeper cousin of pork rillettes, off Gascony's confit shelf.
Anjou pork belly cooked in its own fat to a burnished cube, packed warm down a baguette with strong Dijon, eaten on a Saturday market morning with a glass of Saumur-Champigny.
The Sandwich Rigotte de Condrieu frames a tiny raw goat cheese from the Pilat slopes above Lyon, its rind freckling blue-grey as it dries, kept spare so the small round is not lost.
Cold ratatouille, drained of its loosest juice, packed into a split baguette: a vegetable sandwich whose whole craft is the fight between a stew that wants to run and a loaf that cannot soak.
A semi-firm Savoyard cheese melted and scraped into a split baguette, where the crust tube concentrates the molten cheese instead of letting it spread and set. Eaten warm and elastic.
The Sandwich Quiche Lorraine puts a whole cold wedge of quiche, pastry floor and set custard, into a crusted loaf. It works on one trick: bake the migaine firm enough to slice and keep it cold.
A crusted baguette dressed cold with drained ripe tomato, oil-cured olive, anchovy, raw onion, and a film of mill-fresh olive oil rubbed with herbes de Provence onto the crumb.
The Corsican village ham sandwich: eight-kilo legs hung for up to two years in mountain attics, sliced thin onto a wide country loaf.
Préfou is a Vendée loaf baked deliberately half done, its name meaning pre-oven: garlic butter goes into the underbaked bread before a second bake finishes it, reversing the usual spread-after order.
The everyday French boulangerie chicken baguette: a half-loaf, a thin band of mayonnaise, three or four slices of cooked breast, and a leaf of green lettuce.
The roast chicken sandwich, skin and all: a whole rotisserie bird carved into a baguette, dark meat and crisp seasoned skin and rendered jus, the Sunday roast and its Monday leftovers.
In a French boulangerie, curry is a register, not a heat: a pinch of mild yellow powder in mayonnaise, rounded with raisins and apple. A cold chicken sandwich built on perfume.