Wrap
The wrap is built in a line, not a stack: filling down the centre of a soft tortilla, rolled tight and cut on the bias. A 1990s American take on the burrito, now a French chiller fixture.
The wrap is built in a line, not a stack: filling down the centre of a soft tortilla, rolled tight and cut on the bias. A 1990s American take on the burrito, now a French chiller fixture.
The chain-boulangerie chicken wrap: a soft wheat tortilla sealed at the seam, around a band of cold roast chicken, lettuce, tomato, and herbed mayonnaise.
A whole Caesar salad, romaine and chicken and parmesan and croutons, tossed in its own garlicky dressing and rolled tight in a tortilla. The 1924 Tijuana salad with one new part: the wrapper.
The French reading of British rarebit: melted cheese, beer, and Dijon emulsified into a smooth pourable sauce, poured over toast and blistered under the broiler. Eaten hot, with a knife and fork.
A sealed dough pillow dropped into hot oil and eaten standing off the pan, the Champsaur tourton crisps gold over potato or stewed prune. Old feast-day food, fried to order at the Gap market.
A half-baguette split open, buttered to the edge, draped with folded jambon de Paris and eaten with a fork: the tartine parisienne is the jambon-beurre with its lid taken off, all of it on show.
One open slice, a brown layer thick enough to hold the knife's drag-marks, no butter under it because the spread carries its own fat. The lazy default of the four o'clock gouter, eaten fast.
An open slice of country bread heaped with melting cheese and run under a broiler until the top blisters and lacquers. The single slice is a plate for the flame, best in the minute it lands.
A torn length of baguette with a bar of dark chocolate pushed into the crumb: the tartine chocolat is the original pain au chocolat, the four o'clock goûter the pastry later took its name from.
A slice of country bread under cool cheese, the cheese course handed a piece of bread: spread a fresh goat's round to the edges or lay an aged wedge in slabs, eaten at the apéro hour, never melted.
Chickpea flatbread (socca) folded around fillings; gluten-free option.
The Lille brasserie's beer-and-cheddar melt built as a closed sandwich: ham under a broiled rarebit sauce, a second toast as the cap, eaten hot with cutlery.
A loose Ghent cream braise, sieved to the instant it coats rather than soaks, slid warm into pain de campagne: poached chicken or river fish, leek, the yolk-and-cream liaison just clinging.
A cured belly wound into a tube and sliced into orange-rimmed spirals, the piment d'Espelette rim the southwest's mark on every coin. Half a baguette and a stack of them, little else.
Sandwich Vendéen: the standing Vendée plate of dry-cured eau-de-vie-marinated jambon de Vendée and the small white mogette bean compressed into a baguette or brioche.
Valençay sandwich: a hand-ladled truncated-pyramid raw-goat cheese from the Berry, ash-coated and sliced down its flat faces, AOP since 1998.
A French egg sandwich named for the yellow mimosa flower: cooked white folded with mayonnaise, the yolk sieved into a pollen-fine crumb on top.
The chopped-and-folded egg salad sandwich of the Paris bistro counter, sharpened with Dijon and defended by ASOM, the society founded by Claude Lebey in 1990 to keep it on menus.
Sandwich Oeuf Dur: the plain sliced hard-boiled egg on a buttered baguette, laid as visible rounds rather than bound, the unmodified base form of the French boulangerie egg sandwich.