Andrew Lekashman

Andrew Lekashman

Torta de Atún: an illustration of tuna, mayonnaise, refried beans, avocado and more on bread.

Torta de Atún

Torta de atún is the lunchbox torta: cold canned tuna bound with mayonnaise in a bolillo, beans as a blotter, jalapeño as the cut. The can behind it came from Baja California's 1920s cannery trade.

Torta Cubana: an illustration of katsu, ham, hot dog, egg and more on bread.

Torta Cubana

Count what goes in one roll: milanesa, ham, hot dog, fried egg, cheese, the lot. The cubana is the maximal Mexico City torta, held by a bean-and-avocado bind laid on toasted faces before the meat.

Tlayuda: an illustration of beans, cabbage, tomato, avocado and more on tortilla.

Tlayuda

A 30-to-40-centimetre dried corn round, brushed with asiento, layered with black beans and quesillo, folded over a meat, and set back across the wood-fired comal until the cheese ropes melt.

Taco: an illustration of pork, beef, onion, cilantro and more on tortilla.

Taco

A tortilla folded around a filling, eaten in the hand: the irreducible Mexican handheld, doubled for a reason and finished by a grammar stricter than it looks.

Taco Supreme: an illustration of beef, cheddar cheese, lettuce, tomato and more.

Taco Supreme

The hard-shell taco at its most loaded: seasoned beef and cheddar in a brittle fried corn shell, finished with cold sour cream and diced tomato. Taco Bell trademarked the name in 1978.

Taco Sudado: an illustration of pork, chorizo, potato and salsa verde on tortilla.

Taco Sudado

Sudado means sweated, and it is the recipe: a corn tortilla in chile oil, folded around a stew, then steamed in the dark by two hundred of its neighbors in a closed basket through the morning.

Taco Placero: an illustration of cabbage, onion, queso fresco, avocado and more on tortilla.

Taco Placero

Central Mexico's plaza taco is a big corn tortilla loaded cold with crisp chicharrón, panela, avocado and a few leaves of pápalo, all bought at the market and eaten on the spot.