Andrew Lekashman

Andrew Lekashman

Xacuti Pao

Xacuti is among the most spice-dense things on the Konkan coast: a dozen whole spices and grated coconut dry-roasted dark, ground near-black, cooked over chicken and folded hot into a Goan pão.

Vada Pav

On a Mumbai platform at rush hour, eaten one-handed because the other holds a train pole. A fried spiced-potato dumpling in soft pav with a sharp dry garlic chutney that makes the whole thing.