Andrew Lekashman

Andrew Lekashman

Lonche

In Jalisco a lonche is a birote sandwich with the salsa held back. Flood the same bread and it becomes a torta ahogada. The crumb, soured into existence during a 19th-century war, is built for both.

Kimchi Quesadilla

The kimchi quesadilla cooks the ferment down in butter before it meets the cheese, so the fold crisps instead of weeping. A Kogi BBQ creation from Los Angeles, 2008, the plainest of its quesadillas.