Mexico

Taco al Pastor

Al pastor is a clock. A cone of adobo-stained pork turns past a flame, only the outer face cooks, and the craft is one cut: the instant the crisped band is shaved off before the heat reaches past it.

Taco al Carbón

Taco al carbón is named for its fuel, not its filling: skirt or flank over live charcoal and mesquite, the lacquered smoke-char a flat griddle cannot fake, from the cattle north to the Texas border.

Sushi Burrito

A hand roll scaled to Mission-burrito size, never cut, eaten end-on: the sushi burrito was trademarked before it existed, opened in San Francisco in 2011, and outlived the company that named it.

Street Taco (USA)

On a US menu, "street taco" is a promise about what the kitchen leaves off: small double corn tortillas, one seasoned meat, onion, cilantro, lime, no cheese, no lettuce. Old food, newer label.