Döner Dürüm Tavuk
The chicken dürüm: lean thigh döner shaved off the cone into griddle-pressed lavaş, lifted by garlic sauce and sumac onion. The cheap everyday wrap that punishes a hasty knife.
The chicken dürüm: lean thigh döner shaved off the cone into griddle-pressed lavaş, lifted by garlic sauce and sumac onion. The cheap everyday wrap that punishes a hasty knife.
Red-meat döner shaved from the Bursa cone takes three forms: the İskender plate it was born as, the split-loaf ekmek arası, and the dürüm, the bare meat rolled into lavaş for the street.
Tongue in bread; boiled or fried lamb/beef tongue.
The çupra ekmek is the Aegean's own fish-in-bread, not a borrowing from Istanbul's mackerel boats. Bodrum farms gilt-head bream by the tonne, and the loaf is what the coast keeps for itself.
Çöp şiş ekmek pushes thin wooden skewers of charcoal-grilled lamb off the stick and into a split somun loaf: an Aegean thrift grill from Selçuk and Germencik, seasoned at the last second.
'Garbage' şiş (small meat pieces threaded on wooden skewers) wrapped in lavaş; name refers to small scraps of meat.
'Shepherd's wrap'; with çoban salad (tomato, cucumber, pepper, onion, parsley).
Baby bluefish sandwich; small çinekop fried or grilled.
Edirne's famous liver wrap; thinly sliced fried liver wrapped in lavaş.
Cubes of lamb liver fired over charcoal at first light and rolled hot into lavaş, the breakfast wrap of Turkey's southeast, where the iron of the grilled organ meets cold sumac onion piled raw around.
Çiğ köfte served on plate with lettuce wraps.
Çiğ köfte ekmek packs the raw kneaded bulgur paste into a split crusty loaf, so a crust meets the teeth before the cold spiced filling. A 2008 raw-meat ban turned it meatless and chains scaled it.
Raw meatball (now usually vegan—bulgur, tomato paste, spices) wrapped in lavaş with lettuce, onion, pomegranate molasses, lemon.
Spicy çiğ köfte wrap; extra hot pepper paste.
Walnut gözleme is the sweet outlier of the family: crushed walnuts with sugar and cinnamon folded in thin yufka, cooked dry on a saç, then drizzled with honey or grape molasses.
Erzurum's horizontal-spit lamb, shaved onto a small hand skewer called the cağ, given a last char at the coals and pushed into a split crusted loaf. The wood-fired ancestor of vertical döner.
Erzurum cooks the spit on its side. Cağ kebabı turns the lamb cone horizontally so the fat circulates back into the meat, then re-skewers the cooked edge and grills it again before the lavaş dürüm.
Bread with cacık (yogurt-cucumber-garlic dip); simple, refreshing.
Bursa's plated kebab: shaved döner over squares of pide soaked dark with tomato sauce, butter poured on top, yogurt alongside. The everyday, untrademarked face of İskender.